Thread Painting Instructions
You will need:
- Sewing machine: a zig zag machine on which you can lower or disengage the feed dogs is preferred, but it is possible to use just a basic straight stitch machine with a feed dog cover. If the cover is too cumbersome, you can remove it and set the stitch length to "0". You may also cover the feed dogs with tape or sticky back plastic. The zig zag stitch will allow you to fill areas more quickly but I find that I do a good portion of my thread painting with the straight stitch setting because I am more comfortable with a back and forth motion rather than with a side to side motion.
- Darning foot, spring foot, appliqué foot or a spring needle.
- Decorative threads for the top and transparent or bobbin thread for the bobbin. I use Sulky 40 weight Rayon thread in the top with a cotton 60 weight machine embroidery thread that is close in color to the top thread in the bobbin if I am worried that the bobbin thread might show occasionally, especially when changing stitch directions. Usually it doesn't matter but sometimes I want to be sure. I also use cotton and polyester embroidery threads in place of the rayon, depending on the effect I wish to create.
- Embroidery hoop or other aid to holding the fabric so that your hands don't get too sore.
Set the machine for free motion stitching:
- Attach the bed of the machine if you have removed it for free arm sewing. This gives you a bigger area to support your project.
- Attach the appliqué foot or darning foot.
- Lower or disengage the feed dogs.
- Insert a new embroidery needle in the machine or a metallica needle if you are using metallic threads. It is important to change needles frequently because dull needles can cause skipped stitches.
- Thread the machine and insert the bobbin.
- Reduce the upper tension by at least one step so that you have an uneven balance between the upper and lower threads. This helps to prevent the bobbin thread from pulling through. On my machine, I find that many time I have to reduce the top tension by two or three steps. Do a test using the same fabrics and threads because different fabrics sometimes require different settings.
Nice but not essential:
- Acrylic extension table to give a larger working surface. There are a variety of these tables on the market. They slide on to the machine when the bed has been removed for free arm sewing and are particularly nice for working on larger projects. They provide support for your project and relieve tension on your hands and neck.
- Various gripper tools to reduce tension on your hands. These can vary from a circular hoop with ears and an open section that lies on top of your work and has a rubber insert on the bottom to prevent slipping to fabric gloves with little rubber grippers on the palms and fingers. I have also used a couple of large pencil erasers and they work fine too.
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